KLUNGKUNG
Bali's smallest district Klungkung is located between Gianyar and Karangasem, and includes the island of Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan. Klungkung itself is a bustling town. On reaching the town centre, you come to Kertha Gosa, the Hall of Justice. Surrounded by a moat, this is a superb example of Klungkung architecture, best known for its ceiling paintings in the Klungkung style.
Adjoining Kertha Gosa is the palace, with its beautiful Bale Kambang (or Floating Pavilion). It also has exquisitely painted ceilings telling stories of the sacrifice of the hero Sutasoma and of Pan and Men Brayut- the couple who had too many children..
Kamasan village is a few kilometres outside Klungkung. It has long been the bastion of traditional paintings. The themes are derived from Balinese variations on the ancient Hindu epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. This style has also been adapted for large versions of the zodiac and lunar calendars. Kamasan paintings take their essential characteristics from the wayang tradition. To see a good collection of Kamasan classical paintings, visit the Gunarsa Museum at the crossroads to Tihingan, just before Klungkung.
A few kilometres east is Goa Lawah, the Bat Cave. This cave is crammed with thousands of bats which are unseen but certainly not unheard during the day. The cave is part of a temple that is said to lead all the way to Besakih but it is unlikely that anyone would be interested in investigating!
Beyond Klungkung is the coastal village of Kusamba. Kusamba is one of the embarkation points to the island of Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, and Nusa Ceningan. The journey from Kusamba or Sanur to these islands takes a couple of hours. Nusa Penida has unfortunately acquired a somewhat eerie reputation, as it was once the place of banishment for criminals and undesirables from the Kingdom of Klungkung. Penida attracts a number of visitors for its seclusion, surf and snorkeling. Few facilities exist for tourists, just a few losmen and a number of small warungs.
However, the island has some interesting temples including the Pura Ped near Toyapakeh and Pura Batukuning near Sewana. There is also a huge limestone cave, Goa Karangsari, about a kilometre from Sewana. The friendly people of Lembongan have welcomed tourism. For those looking for white sandy beaches and a laid-back atmosphere, Nusa Lembongan is paradise. The waters around Lembongan are crystal clear, the sand is white and the shallow coves are brimming with colourful coral and sea life, making it an ideal location for snorkeling. The Waka Nusa Resort, run by Wakalouka Cruises, is found in a small bay along with a small near-by losmen called Mushroom Cottages, a simple retreat for surfers and travelers. Nusa Ceningan, which is the smallest of the three islands, is rarely visited.
A historically important town 40 km from Denpasar (Rp2000 by minibus) and 13 km east of Gianyar (Rp500 by
bemo), Klungkung was the seat of the Gelgel dynasty from 1710 until 1908. Most Balinese nobles are descended from Klungkung's raja, his family, or retinue. Until his death in 1965, the last Klungkung raja was regarded as the most exalted prince in Balinese aristocracy.
After the
puputan of 1908 which wiped out the royal family, the Dutch controller took over Klunkung's affairs until 1929 when the heir to the throne returned. Throughout his life Ida Dewa Agung Geg, the last raja of Klunkung (1896-1965), bore the scars of the 1908
puputan, when he was stabbed in the side and shot in the knee. He was exiled to Lombok until 1929, then returned to Bali to occupy the old palace with his 40 wives and 100 children.